Available in Texas, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts

Bill Grade: Is Your Electricity Rate an A or an F?

Some households pay $300–$1,400 extra a year on the wrong plan. Find out in 30 seconds.

Verified with live retail-plan data · Updated June 2026

Grade your electric bill

Your ZIP and two numbers from your last bill. 30 seconds.

Works in TX, OH, PA, MA. We'll tell you if yours isn't covered.

Total amount due

Total kWh used

Where do I find these on my bill?
★ YOUR ELECTRIC COMPANYStatement
Account #: ••••••3847
Service period: Apr 12 – May 11
Total amount due$187.42
↑ enter this as Monthly bill ($)
Due by: Jun 03, 2026
Usage summary
Total energy used (kWh)1,234
↑ enter this as Monthly kWh
Meter reading start53,217
Meter reading end54,451
Yellow → bill·Green → kWh·Hit Get my grade

Bill layouts vary by provider, but these labels are standard across deregulated-market bills.

Free, no signup or email — inputs stay in your browser.

How it works

  1. Enter two numbers

    Monthly total and kWh used. Both are on your last bill.

  2. We check 100+ live plans

    Every plan offered in your ZIP today — delivery and base fees included.

  3. See your grade

    Your A–F grade, exact dollar overpay, and a link you can share.

Not sure where to find the numbers? See the 4-step walkthrough →

What the grades mean

Within 5% of the cheapest plan. You shopped recently and got a great rate.

5–15% above cheapest. Decent rate. Switching might save a couple hundred a year.

15–30% above cheapest. Mediocre. Real savings are on the table.

30–50% above cheapest. You're overpaying — typical for expired fixed-rate plans.

Over 50% above cheapest. A variable rate that's drifted up — switching saves $500+/yr.

How We Ensure Accuracy

Since 2009, the team at ElectricRates.org has helped over 5 million energy consumers find better electricity rates. Supplier information comes from state regulators, company filings, and documented customer feedback. Read the editorial standards & see our methodology.

Frequently asked questions

How is my electricity rate grade calculated?

ElectricRates.org grades your current rate by comparing it against every plan available in your ZIP today, then mapping the gap to a letter. An A means you're within 5% of the cheapest plan in your market. F means you're more than 50% above it, with B (5–15%), C (15–30%), and D (30–50%) filling the brackets between. In Texas, the comparison runs against the live ComparePower retail database — every plan licensed Texas providers (REPs) currently sell, with the utility's TDU delivery charges (Oncor, CenterPoint, AEP, TNMP) baked in at your usage level. In Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Massachusetts, the tool holds your utility's delivery charges constant (you can't shop those) and grades only the supply portion against PowerKiosk's competitive supplier feed for your utility — AEP Ohio, PECO, Eversource, and the rest. Rates refresh daily. Your grade reflects today's market, not last year's.

What does an A grade vs F grade mean for my bill?

An A grade typically means you're saving $300 to $700 a year compared to a household stuck on utility default service or an expired fixed-rate plan. An F grade means you're paying that gap in the wrong direction — $500 to $1,400 a year above the cheapest plan in your ZIP, depending on monthly usage. The dollar math: a Texas household using 1,200 kWh a month at a 17¢/kWh expired rate (F territory) pays roughly $2,448 a year. The same household on an 11¢/kWh A-grade plan from ComparePower pays about $1,584 — an $864 annual gap, real money. In Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Massachusetts, the gap is narrower because only the supply portion shops while utility delivery stays fixed, but PUCO Apples to Apples and PA PUC PAPowerSwitch data show D and F households routinely overpay $300 to $600 a year versus the cheapest PowerKiosk offer in their utility territory. The dollars scale with usage.

Should I switch if my grade is C or worse?

A C, D, or F grade is worth acting on when the annual savings outweigh the friction of switching. ElectricRates.org shows your exact dollar overpay alongside the grade, so the math is concrete instead of guesswork. Switch when three conditions line up: the savings clear $200 a year, your current plan has no early termination fee (ETF) larger than the first few months of savings, and you've confirmed the new plan's rate is fixed for at least 12 months. Texas REPs disclose ETFs in the Electricity Facts Label (EFL) — typically $150 to $295 per the PUCT. Ohio PUCO, Pennsylvania PUC, and Massachusetts DPU require similar contract disclosures from licensed suppliers. If you're inside an ETF window, calculate the breakeven: ETF divided by monthly savings tells you how many months until switching pays back. Under 6 months, switch now. Otherwise, set a reminder for your contract end date.

How is my electric bill grade calculated?

We compare your current bill against the cheapest plan in your ZIP. An A means you're within 5% of that cheapest plan. An F means you're more than 50% above it. Texas uses all-in retail plans. Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Massachusetts hold your utility's delivery charges constant and compare only the supply portion — the part you can shop.

Which states does this work for?

Texas, Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Massachusetts — the four deregulated markets where you can shop your supplier. If a municipal utility (Austin Energy, CPS Energy) or an electric co-op serves you, your bill isn't shoppable. The tool will say so.

Where do you get the comparison rates?

Texas rates come from ComparePower's live retail database — every plan the licensed Texas providers (REPs) sell today, with utility delivery charges (TDU) baked in at your usage level. Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Massachusetts rates come from PowerKiosk: the utility's default supply rate plus every competing offer in your ZIP. Rates refresh daily.

Why is my electric bill higher than the cheapest plan?

Most households haven't shopped their rate in 12+ months. If your fixed-rate plan expired, or you've never switched off utility default service, you're paying well above market. Suppliers price aggressively for new customers — switching to the cheapest plan in your ZIP typically cuts 15–40% off the shoppable portion.

How much can I actually save by switching?

Across the four states served (Texas, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts), households at a D or F grade typically save $300–$1,400 a year by switching. The savings come from comparing the current ComparePower / PowerKiosk plan databases against the rate the household actually pays. Your number depends on your usage and how far above market you sit. The tool calculates yours from this month's usage.

How is OH/PA/MA different from TX?

In Texas, your retail provider (REP) bills you one all-in number that covers both delivery and supply. In Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Massachusetts, your bill splits in two: the utility's delivery charges (which you can't shop) and the supply charge (which you can). We keep your delivery charges as-is, swap in the cheapest supplier, and compare the total to your current bill.

Is the bill grade tool free?

Yes. Free, no signup, no email. Your bill numbers stay in your browser — we don't store them. Share the result link with anyone.