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FAQ

Frequently asked questions

Straight answers about switching suppliers—including the stuff other sites don't mention.

What they don't tell you

Why are electricity rates so confusing?

Because confusion is profitable. An "8.9¢ rate" sounds great until you read the EFL and find usage tiers that make your actual cost 14¢. "Free nights" plans often cost more than fixed rates when you do the math. The complexity isn't accidental—it's harder to comparison shop when you can't compare apples to apples.

Are electricity promo codes worth it?

Usually not. Most "promo codes" on comparison sites are just affiliate tracking codes—not real discounts. If a code is "preloaded" or "applied automatically when you click our link," that is the code. They get paid when you sign up. The $25–50 bonus rarely offsets choosing the wrong plan for your usage. The full breakdown →

What's the catch with "free nights" and "free weekends" plans?

The daytime rate is usually 18–27¢/kWh to compensate for the "free" hours. Unless you use 60%+ of your electricity during free periods (most people use 30–40%), you'll pay more than a simple fixed-rate plan. The marketing math doesn't match reality. See the real numbers →

Why do rates look different on your site vs. the provider's site?

Providers advertise the rate at the usage tier that looks best—usually 2,000 kWh. But if you use 1,000 kWh, you might be in a different tier with a higher rate. We calculate based on actual usage so you see what you'd really pay, not what looks good in an ad.

How it works

How does ElectricRates.org work?

ElectricRates.org connects you to Smart Enroll, a licensed enrollment service. Sign up once, and the rest is handled—you're placed on a better rate when one becomes available, with renewals managed automatically. Learn more →

Do you always show rates?

Nope. If supplier rates don't beat your utility's 12‑month average, no plans are shown—just continued monitoring until something better comes along.

How do you decide to renew or switch?

A switch happens only if the new rate beats your utility's 12‑month average AND your current supplier's renewal is way off (35%+ higher than the best option). Otherwise, renewal with your current supplier.

What if my utility rate is already best?

Then you stay on it. We watch the market daily and notify you when supplier rates become genuinely competitive.

How do you calculate savings?

The supplier rate is compared to your utility's 12‑month average (not a single month snapshot), then multiplied by your usage. Simple math, honest numbers.

Why continuous monitoring?

Contracts expire and markets move. We track your expiration date, compare rates daily, and take action when the timing's right—so you don't have to remember.

Getting started

How do I get started?

Just enter your ZIP code. If your area is served, you can finish Smart Enroll in about 2 minutes—all you need is your utility account number.

What information is required?

Your utility account number (from your bill), basic contact info, and your authorization. If you share your usage, we can estimate your savings too.

How long does the first switch take?

Usually kicks in at your next meter read. Exact timing depends on your utility and the supplier.

Will my power be interrupted?

Nope. Your utility still delivers the electricity—nothing changes there. Only the supply rate and who you're buying from changes.

The service

Who operates Smart Enroll?

EnrollPower is the licensed broker of record. They handle enrollment, monitoring, and switching on your behalf.

Costs and savings

How much does it cost?

Nothing. It's free to you. Suppliers pay the broker—there are no setup fees, no monthly fees, no catch.

How much can I save?

It depends on your market and how much electricity you use. Savings are only shown when there's a better deal than your utility's 12‑month average.

Are there fees or contracts I should know about?

Supplier terms vary. Bad deals are filtered out, but you should still review the terms during Smart Enroll before you confirm anything.

Safety and security

Is this legitimate and safe?

Yes. EnrollPower is a licensed broker with standard security practices. You'll see all the terms and your authorization document during Smart Enroll—nothing hidden.

Current customers

What if I'm already with a supplier?

No problem. Your current rate is compared to your utility's 12‑month average and what's available in the market. If switching genuinely saves money, a switch is recommended. Otherwise, continued monitoring.

Can I cancel?

Absolutely. You can revoke your authorization anytime by emailing support@enrollpower.com. That stops any future managed switches. (Your current supplier terms still apply until their contract ends.)

How often will you switch me?

Only when it makes sense. You'll typically see 0–2 switches per year. Sometimes the best move is staying put with your utility or renewing with your current supplier.

Switching & contracts

When is the best time to change electricity suppliers for better rates?

The best time to switch is 30–60 days before your current contract expires. This gives the switch time to process (typically 1–2 billing cycles) before your contract ends, helping you avoid early termination fees and expensive month-to-month holdover rates. Rates are often lowest in spring and fall when demand drops. In Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Massachusetts, switching is free—but if you're mid-contract, check for early termination fees (typically $50–200).

What happens when my fixed-rate plan expires?

When your fixed-rate contract expires, most suppliers automatically switch you to a variable-rate or month-to-month plan—often 30–50% higher than your fixed rate. This is called a "holdover rate." To avoid it: note your contract end date 60 days in advance, compare rates 30–45 days before expiration, and lock in a new fixed plan before the deadline. In Ohio, PUCO requires suppliers to send renewal notices. Massachusetts and Pennsylvania have similar consumer protection rules.

What happens if I end my electricity contract early?

Canceling before your contract ends typically triggers an early termination fee (ETF)—usually $50–200 depending on your supplier and time remaining. Some charge a flat fee; others charge per month remaining. Many Ohio and Pennsylvania suppliers offer no-ETF plans. Some suppliers waive ETFs if you're relocating outside their service area. The ETF appears on your final supplier bill, not your utility bill.

How do I avoid scams when choosing a new electricity provider?

Verify supplier certification on PUCO (Ohio), PA Power Switch (Pennsylvania), or Energy Switch MA (Massachusetts). Red flags include door-to-door pressure to "sign today," requests for your account number without your initiation, rates that seem too good to be true, and suppliers not listed on official state comparison sites. Your utility handles delivery regardless of supplier—there's no legitimate reason for urgency.

What are delivery charges on my electric bill?

Delivery charges (also called distribution charges) are what your utility charges to transport electricity to your home through power lines, transformers, and meters. They include distribution charges for local lines, transmission charges for moving power across the regional grid, and a customer charge for billing and meter service. Delivery charges are regulated and stay the same whether you use a competitive supplier or your utility's default rate. In Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Massachusetts, delivery typically runs 6–12¢/kWh in addition to your supply rate.

Can I switch electric companies if I owe money?

It depends on your state. In Texas, an outstanding balance may trigger a "switch hold" preventing you from switching until the debt is resolved. Options include paying the balance, setting up a payment plan, using prepaid electricity, or waiting for the hold to expire (typically 4 years). In Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Massachusetts, unpaid supplier balances work differently—you can often switch suppliers while the utility handles collections separately. Your utility service continues regardless of supplier debt.

Understanding your bill

What is a good electricity rate?

A good rate depends on your location and market conditions. In Texas, under 11¢/kWh all-in (including delivery) is good; under 9¢/kWh is excellent. In Ohio, rates under 7¢/kWh for supply are competitive. In Pennsylvania and Massachusetts, rates vary more by utility territory. Always compare "all-in" or "average" prices that include delivery fees—not just the advertised energy charge. Lock in rates during spring or fall when demand is lower for the best deals.

What is the energy charge on my electric bill?

The energy charge is the cost of the actual electricity you consumed, measured in kilowatt-hours (kWh). This is separate from delivery charges (transmission and distribution), base/customer charges (monthly service fees), and taxes. In deregulated states, the energy charge is the portion you can change by switching suppliers. Some bills show multiple energy charges for different rate tiers or time-of-use periods. When comparing plans, focus on the energy charge plus any fees to get the true cost per kWh.

Edge cases

I'm moving and don't have an account number. What now?

First, set up service with your local utility to get an account number. Once you have that, come back and complete Smart Enroll. If you already have service, your account number is on your bill or in your online account.

Still have questions?

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